A Cheesy Night in Little Italy

Grazing at...

THE MODERN PANTRY

47-48 St John's Square

Clerkenwell 
London EC1V 4JJ

Tel: 020 7553 9210 

 

It takes a lot to tempt me out on a weekday evening, particularly when it’s pouring down outside. I’d rather be doing anything but trying to grab a taxi from a rain-soaked pavement to a restaurant at rush hour. But that’s exactly what I found myself doing on a Tuesday night following the promise of a delicious cheese-inspired menu in central London. Arriving in Clerkenwell, known as Little Italy until the 1960s on account of the large number of Italians living there, we made haste to the welcoming (and dry) front door of The Modern Pantry. Downstairs we found a casual space for all-day dining, complete with a small bar serving eclectic wines and cocktails. Couples chatted quietly over drinks and nibbles.Upstairs, where we ate, were two dining rooms overlooking St John's Square.

Contemporary art work compliments the simple décor. The food was good. Starter was a twice baked Cashel Blue soufflé with braised celery and soda bread crumbs. The familiar flavours of the Irish cheese, together with a large glass of white wine, melted away earlier thoughts of the night’s miserable weather. The main course was a grilled rib-eye, with sour cherry, kalamata olive and cavolo nero – a Tuscan loose-leafed cabbage. Not the best steak I’ve ever had but by no means a poor effort. The Modern Pantry opened its doors in 2008 under the ownership of Canandian-born New Zealander Anna Hansen. Her philosophy, she says, is driven by the desire to please and excite the palate by renewing everyday cooking with modern ingredients and global inspiration. And dessert certainly matched up to this. We enjoyed an interesting plum and yuzu compote with ricotta sorbet, macadamia and sesame praline. Not my usual choice of dessert – give me chocolate any day - but certainly a sweet and rewarding end to a well put together menu.   

Three course set menu including a bottle of wine cost £30 per person.